How to Read a Crochet Pattern

One of the things I hear most often from students and customers is “I know the basic stitches, but have no idea how to read a crochet pattern”.  In fact, it wasn’t so long ago that I was in the same boat, struggling to understand what all of the letters, numbers and abbreviations meant!  Most searches on the internet throw up only a list of abbreviations for the terms used in crochet in either US or UK crochet.  Of course this is crucial information, but it isn’t the whole story.

When you get to the basic instructions of a crochet pattern, there are a number of things you need to know in addition to the common abbreviations.  In many ways, its like a code or another language that tells you how and where to make stitches. Unfortunately, each designer and publication will do things a little differently, which can add to the confusion. While I don’t believe that there should be any sort of dogma in pattern writing, people do need to understand what you are telling them to do.  And while testers and tech editors can really help with pattern clarity, the reader still needs some basic pattern information.

Let’s look at an imaginary line of pattern:

At the beginning of the line, you should have some indication whether you are working in rounds or in rows.

 

 

Immediately following this, you will have an indication of what row/round you are currently on.  Numbers in brackets (parentheses) refer to the corresponding instructions for different sizes, working from left to right, smallest to largest. If there is a “-” in the instruction, this means that this particular instruction doesn’t apply to that size.

 

Next up, you should have some indication of what the beginning chain will be.  You should also have an instruction, either in the pattern or in the beginning instructions of the pattern, of how this stitch will be counted in your stitch count.  This is done because the first stitch at the beginning of a row or round in crochet needs to be raised up to the correct height of the rest of the following stitches, otherwise the work will be sloped. A designer needs to make a decision whether or not this is counted as a stitch and what works best with the pattern.

 

In this example, the next section of instruction means to make 2 half double crochet stitches into the next stitch of the previous round (the pattern tells us the previous round was a double crochet) and then make 1 half double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches.  This is often when there variation occurs in crochet patterns.  When I first started writing patterns, I would have written “HDC2, 2HDC” for the same line…not terribly clear.  If you do come across problems in any designers patterns – ASK!  Don’t get in a muddle.  Its not worth the frustration.

 

In this case, that line of pattern is in square brackets (some designers may use normal parenthesis/brackets) .  This tells us that bit of pattern is repeated the number of times directly after the second bracket.  In this case, 4 times.  There may be variation in relation to sizes, following the same left to right, smallest to largest order.

 

When instructions are preceded by a *, this means to repeat that sequence of stitches as many times as indicated, usually to the end of the round or row.

 

‘Join’ means to join the round with a slip stitch. This is usually used at the end when working in rounds.

 

‘Turn’ means to turn your work. This may not be in the line if there is a general instruction at the beginning of the pattern for how to deal with turning.

 

The stitch counts at the end of the row tell you how many stitches you should have worked in that row or round. This may be followed with the specific stitch that is used in the round/row, the word “stitches” or nothing.

Does that help anyone? I certainly hope so!! Experienced crocheters, have I forgotten anything?

(I could not have ever written this post without the stellar tech editing skillz of Ms Joanne Scrace, she taught me most everything I know.)

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Zig Zag Mitts Pattern

So, its normal to design a pair of mitts to match your blog redesign, right?  And if the colours and prints *happen* to also match your overall studio design, that’s normal too? Yes? Yes?

Well, even if its not, Kat needed a present and I knew she had a yellow hat and liked chevrons, so in the interest of maintaining some of my cred, we’ll say that was the inspiration for the design.

I really love making handwarmers, but I really find most of them make my hands look strange.  I think it has something to do with  the ribbing or the length.  If they are too long, however preactical that may be, I find they make people’s fingers look really short. And if they don’t come up to the right place on the knuckles, they show off a bit too much knuckle hair for my liking*. Also, I find thumb ribbing just odd.  The way it juts out from the tube and unless you are designing for yourself and can make the right modifications, it just never sits right…or maybe I just have strangely shaped hands.

Anyway, no matter which way you slice it, these were designed to be exactly how I would want handwarmers. Short, snappy and pack a punch, as Kat is obviously demonstrating in the second picture.

The pattern is free and is avilable via ravelry or via my design portfolio page.

*I have no problem with knuckle hair, btw, I just don’t like  mine to be highlighted by ill fitting mitts.

 

 

Also, there is a problem with the commenting form.  While I wait for a developer fix, you will need to input a website to comment. If you don’t have one, just make something up.

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Triangulation

Last week, when perusing the online yarn stores, I stumbled upon Artesano’s new British Superwash Wool.  I kid you not, I jumped up and down in excitement when I saw it.  I am always on the look out for nice chunky and super chunky yarns.  There is a tendency for many of the yarns in the upper weights to be single ply (just one single loosely twisted strand, not multiple strands twisted together) – something I really don’t like to use or wear.Anyway, hardly believing my luck at finding such an awesome wool, I contacted Artesano to see if it was true – was there really a new lovely chunky wool on the market? To my delight, yes there was and a hank arrived at my door a few days later. 
The searing pink told me it HAD to be combined with the lovely grey that “fell” into my basket whilst doing another yarn shop and Triangulation was born.  This is a great project for someone who has never done colourwork before, as the pattern is very simple and the bulky yarn makes it easy to see what you are doing.

Finished Hat Sizes:
14” (35cm) 
15.5” (39cm) 
17” (43cm)
18.5” (46cm) 
20” (50cm) 
21.5” (54cm)

Supplies:
Main Colour (MC):1x 100g hank of Artesano British Wool, 100% superwash wool, Grey (02) you'll need:
25.5yd (23m)
26yd (24m)
43yd (39m)
51yd (46m)
61.5yd (56m)
69yd (62m)

Contrast Colour (CC): 1x 100g hank of Artesano British Wool, 100% superwash wool, Pink (09) you'll need:
11.5yd (11m)
13yd (12m)
14yd (13m)
23yd (22m)
24.5yd (24m)
26.5yd (27m)

4.5mm Circular Needles long enough to use as a magic loop (or a set of DPNs)
6mm Circular Needles long enough to use as a magic loop (or a set of DPNs)
6 stitch markers

Tapestry Needle

 

I have also released the pattern for Cold Comfort from Friday’s post.  Buy Triangulation and use the code “Cold Triangles” at check out to get Cold Comfort for £1.  Only available until Wednesday!

 

 

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Cold Comfort


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My particular version of creative block is the certainty that I am crap at everything.

This particular run started at the last photoshoot for the book.  I would take photograph after photograph and HATE them. I couldn’t stand to look at them afterwards and wanted to run, quit, hide…you name it.

Then, it started creeping into other areas – designs I previously loved were not good enough. Photographs I was once proud of became ugly. I can hardly open up my etsy shop without cringing…and I sink a little… Its my form of creative block – the voice in my head that tells me that I suck and everyone else is better.

No matter how many times it happens, and how much I know that it will pass and that its not true, it really pisses me off. I simply do not have time for silly doubts or blockages.  I run business, I need to work to literally put food on our table.

And with that thought, I can not wallow or sulk. I can not stop producing or photographing or designing. It is simply not an option.

I can only do one thing: Fake it until I become it.


So I put as much work aside as I can and just pick up yarn and hook or needles and make. Not for work, no gauging, no deadline, just to keep my hands busy and feel like I am achieving something, even if it is small.

Plus there is the great truth that it is essentially impossible to mope with hot cocoa and marshmallows around.

Pattern is available here:

 

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Lion


 

 

 

 

 

Another Lion. As we are a lion-obsessed household, we needed something a bit more dramatic.  The construction of the base is different to Shaggy Lion – more of a bonnet, built from the back, it really hugs the head and allows for the mane to be built up in loops or in strips, whatever you prefer.  Full details are on Ravelry, and as always, the design has been tech edited by the awesome Joanne.

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