Week 3: Pattern: Patterned Hottie

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Today’s pattern is by the very talented Libby Summers.

Materials:

1 litre sized hot water bottle (18 litre bottle measures 15.5cm/6 in wide x 25cm/10 in high)

50g Libby Summers’ Fine Aran in 101 Lima

Tension:

18 sts and 24 rows in stocking stitch to 10 cm/4in using 5mm needles (or size needed to achieve tension)

Abbreviations:

RS- Right Side

K- Knit

P- Purl

M1- Make one st by picking up loop in row below and knitting into the back of  it

St(s)- Stitch(es)

K2tog- Knit two stitches together, insert needle as to knit through the next two sts on the needle, knit them as one stitch.

Kfb- Knit into front and back of st (thus making one extra stitch)

Pattern:

Front (make 1)

Cast on 24 sts.

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Pattern 1:

Row 1: Kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.  26 sts

Row 2: Knit.

Row 3: As row 1.  28 sts

Row 4: Knit.

Row 5: Knit.

Purl 5 rows.

Knit 5 rows.

Purl 5 rows.

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Pattern 2:

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Row 21 (RS): *P4, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.

Row 22: *K4, p4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Rows 23-24: As Rows 21- 22.

Row 25: *K4, p4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.

Row 26: *P4, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.

Rows 27-28: As Rows 25-26.

Rows 29-44: As Rows 21-28.

Knit 5 rows.


Pattern 3:

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Row 50 (WS): P1, *k1, p4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1.

Row 51: Knit.

Row 52: As Row 1.

Row 53: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2togtbl. 26 sts

Row 54: *K1, p4; to last st, k1.

Row 55: As Row 53. 24 sts

Row 56: *P4, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.

Row 57: As Row 53. 22 sts

Row 58: P3, *k1, p4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Row 59: As Row 53. 20 sts

Row 60: P2, *k1, p4; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2.

Row 61: Knit.

Rep last 2 rows until work measures 18cm from beginning of Pattern 3, ending with a WS row (as row 60).

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Increase section:

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Row 1 (RS): K1, M1, k to last st, M1, k1. 22 sts

Row 2: P3, *k1, p4; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Row 3: As Row 1. 24 sts

Row 4: *P4, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p4.

Row 5: As Row 1. 26 sts

Row 6: *K1, p4; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 7: As Row 1. 28 sts

Row 8: P1, *k1, p4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1.

Knit 5 rows.

Cast off.

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Back

Work as for Front until end of Pattern 2.  Knit one extra row, then cast off.


Making Up

With right side facing you, fold top section (pattern 3) of front over so that right sides are together and five rows of garter stitch just before the beginning of top section match up with six rows of garter stitch at the end of front.

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With wrong side facing you, place back piece on top of front piece, making sure that cast off edge of back piece comes above the six rows of garter stitch at end of front piece.  Pin in place.

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Sew pieces together using back stitch, leaving flap opening.  Turn right side out.

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Casting Off

What is casting off?
Casting off is a technique which creates a selvedge on your knitted fabric, simultaneously securing your stitches and stopping them going any further. If you wish to add to your creation after casting off, you will have to re-create the loops you have lost by ‘picking up’ some more stitches along either the cast off selvedge or one of your other selvedges (your sides or cast on edge). Sometimes casting off also occurs over just a few stitches, when creating an armhole, or buttonhole for example.

How many different methods of casting off are there?
There are different methods for casting off, the choice of which can sometimes be determined by either the decorative effect desired or the practical need required. There are definitely less cast off methods than cast on methods however, and even fewer commonplace ones. So for casting off, I would recommend just one method for beginners. As for the cast on tutorial, if you are interested in learning more methods, then I can recommend the book ‘Cast On Bind Off’ by Leslie Ann Bestor.

Can I skip this step and just pull the loops off the needles?
No! Without securing your stitches in some way, your knitting will unravel.

What mistakes might I make while casting off?
Making a mistake while casting off is not any more drastic than making a mistake in your knitting. The most likely result of any mistake is that one or more stitches will unravel, or will need unravelling. Just tug the yarn gently (the end attached to your ball), and the stitch should come undone. Be careful not to pull too hard or you may undo more than one row. If you have managed to tie a knot that doesn’t respond to gentle tugging, or your stitch has dropped to the previous row, then you may need to unravel back to the previous row.

A common error is to make the stitches too tight or too loose, but usually too tight. Take a look at the photo of the finished cast on row, and try and copy the ‘look’. If the air pocket between your stitch and the needle is too big, your cast on edge will be baggy, if it is too small, your knitting will be pulled in at the top, and so the shape of your work will be compromised. It is important that your tension is even across the cast off row. Some people always swap to a bigger needle to cast off as then they don’t need to concentrate too hard not to do it too tightly. I would experiment before taking this step to see how your cast off turns out.

Once you have cast off, you are ready to sew up you seams and then you have completed your knitting.

Knit two stitches in the usual way.

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Take hold of the first knitted stitch with your LH needle ready to pass it over the second knitted stitch.

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And pass it over the second knitted stitch, making sure the second stitch stays on the RH needle.

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Knit another stitch so that you have two stitches on the RH needle again.

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And repeat steps 2 – 3.

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Repeat across the row until you have one stitch left on the RH needle.

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Enlarge the last stitch and cut the yarn. (Read the pattern carefully at this point as there may be instructions on how long to leave the end).

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Thread the cut end through the stitch and pull gently until the stitch is the same size as the other cast off stitches.


Week 2: Knit Flat Hat

Welcome to Week 2 of Knit Camp. This week, we are woking through this stripey hat, designed by Joanne Scrace.  We will also be covering: How to Read Knitting Patterns, Tension, Decreasing and Casting Off. Don’t feel like you have to *get* everything in this pattern from the beginning. We will be working through the sections as we go this week.

Remember, the tutorials will be online forever more, so you can work through them at your own pace.

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Materials:

50g Libby Summers’ Fine Aran in 660 Larama (Main Colour)

24g Libby Summers’ Fine Aran in 890 Kulli (Contrast Colour)

Tension:

18 sts and 24 rows in stocking stitch to 10 cm/4in using 5mm needles (or size needed to achieve tension)

Abbreviations:

MC – Main Colour

CC – Contrast Colour

RS – Right side

WS – Wrong side

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – Knit two stitches together. Insert needle as to knit through the next two sts on the needle, knit them as one stitch.

SSK – slip, slip, knit. Insert needle into next stitch as if to knit it, slip it onto the other needle without knitting it, do the same to the next stitch, insert your needle through the back of the two sts just slipped and knit them together as one stitch.

St(s) – Stitch(es).

Pattern:

Starting at the brim:

Using the MC, cast on 90 sts.

Row 1(RS): *K2, p2; repeat from * to last 2, k2.

Row 2: K1, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p1, k1.

Rows 3-10: As rows 1 and 2.

Row 11(RS): Knit.

Row 12: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Row 13 – 16: Change to CC, work as rows 11 and 12.

Rows 17 – 18: Change to MC, work as rows 11 and 12.

Rows 19 – 20: Change to CC, work as rows 11 and 12.

Rows 21-22: Change to MC, work as rows 11 and 12.

Rows 23 – 24: Change to CC, work as rows 11 and 12.

Break CC yarn leaving tail long enough to weave in.

Rows 25 – 36: Change to MC, work as rows 11 and 12.

 

Begin Decreasing:

Row 37(RS): K1, *k2tog, k7, ssk; repeat from * to last st, k1. (74 sts)

Row 38 and all even rows: As Row 12.

Row 39: K1, *k2tog, k5, ssk; repeat from * to last st, k1. (58 sts)

Row 41: K1, *k2tog, k3, ssk; repeat from * to last st, k1. (42 sts)

Row 43: K1, *k2tog, k1, ssk; repeat from * to last st, k1. (26 sts)

Row 45: K1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1. (14 sts)

 

Break yarn, leaving a long tail (almost as long as your arm). Thread the tail with a darning needle, and weave it through the remaining sts then pull them off the needle. Pull tight and fasten with a stitch. With wrong sides together and using 1 st on each side as a selvedge seam the hat. Weave in all ends. Wash and leave to dry flat.